La Fontelina

La Fontelina has no sand at all. It is a set of sun terraces cut into the rock at the foot of the Faraglioni, the three limestone stacks off Capri's southern shore, with white-linen mattresses laid straight onto the stone and metal ladders dropping into deep, very clear water. Swimming is the whole point here, and it is proper open-water swimming rather than paddling. Getting there is part of the experience: either a steep walk down the path from the Punta Tragara viewpoint, or arrival by boat. In the afternoon the club runs its own free shuttle boat back around to Marina Piccola, which spares you the climb. The Arcucci and Gargiulo families have run the place for more than fifty years and still talk about it as something they are keeping intact rather than developing. The restaurant is well regarded in its own right, built around fish landed locally, seafood pasta and a house sangria that has become something of a fixture. Prices are high and structured: a per-person entrance fee covers the lounger, with umbrellas and towels charged separately, and a minimum spend applies through the peak weeks. Staff assign spots on arrival and you cannot pick or swap. Booking is only accepted through the club's own site.