Zefiro Solarium

Zefiro is not a beach but a solarium, built on the rocks at Largo Aretusa on the western edge of Ortigia, a few steps from the Fonte Aretusa and its papyrus. You swim by walking off the platform into deep, clear water rather than wading in from sand, which suits confident swimmers and rules it out for toddlers. There are 30 stations, each with two loungers and an umbrella with a small table, so around 60 places in total, plus two showers, toilets and changing rooms kept for customers only. Hours are long, 9am to 2am daily, and the place changes gear through the day: swimming and sunbathing, then aperitivo as the light drops over the gulf, then restaurant service, then a DJ and a dance floor. The kitchen is seafood-led and rooted in Ortigia cooking, with octopus bruschette, fried calamari and mixed fritto misto among the things it is known for. Extras include towel hire at 3 euros, canoe rental, 70-minute boat excursions and island tours by ape calesse. Dogs are allowed. Bookings are paid in full up front and are non-refundable, so it is worth watching the forecast before committing.